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I'll keep it brief, looking at a new (used) car and found one which is ok for price. I asked about service history, rust and whether or not the cambelt (and water pump, etc) had been changed. 

Got a reply back with photos, showing a tiny bit of bubbling on one arch and a couple of tiny marks on the bumper at the back. Also a screenshot of the digital service record and some receipts for tyres and MOTs. 

He's offered to pay half of the £400 his local garage will change to change the cam belt and water pump, and tensioners, etc. £400 is a bit cheaper than I'd have thought- maybe £600.

I'm tempted just to try and make him down by £400 buy don't want to take the risk of the belt snapping on my way home. 

It's a trader less than 100 miles away and it's a 09 plate car, the car's done just under 80k miles, let me know if you need any other details. 

Edited by Carl Fimble
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First thing I do is check the MOT history online, can tell you a huge amount. Just one example - if it's had repeated advisories in previous years and then it fails on that thing, it tells me the

If you don't want to keep it more than 2 years you can probably ignore the rust, otherwise I would leave it as very few cars generally show rust these days and the rust you see on top is like the prov

When buying an older (>10 yr) the most important factor is the previous owner*.    When you buy from a trader you can't see this.  I'd suggest the exception might be a local garage that you kn

If you don't want to keep it more than 2 years you can probably ignore the rust, otherwise I would leave it as very few cars generally show rust these days and the rust you see on top is like the proverbial tip of the ice-berg and there is generally 90% more underneath.

Rear arches are a PITA when they rust due to the joint between the floorpan and body sides.

Front arches are piss easy to sort.

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9 minutes ago, Carl Fimble said:

Mazda 5, back drivers side. 

Yip, at least they look the same as the wheels that make and model was originally supplied with. 

Are these chain driven? Jap mobiles tend to be, like my Nissan. 

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11 minutes ago, Carl Fimble said:

Mazda 5, back drivers side. 

Yip, at least they look the same as the wheels that make and model was originally supplied with. 

rust has apparently been a recall issue:

https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/mazda-recalls-22-million-cars-over-rust-risk-45587

 

if this one has already been recalled there should be a record of it, if not maybe it can be rectified, you’d have to ring a lock main dealer. Chances of the cam belt snapping on a 1 off 100 mile trip highly unlikely imo

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When buying an older (>10 yr) the most important factor is the previous owner*.   

When you buy from a trader you can't see this.  I'd suggest the exception might be a local garage that you know that's taken in a px and want rid -- but even then you're losing the most valuable part of the history of the car (seeing the conditions under which it was owned).

100 miles is a long way -- surely there'll be private sales of a similar car within a much shorter radius?

Traders make money -- even with cash for belts he'll be quids in, which means that the original seller sold it for less money.  Typically all a trader will do is give the car a clean, a quick spray with 'new car smell' and hide any obvious defects.  Thus traders typically add little value to the deal.

Warranties from this sector are worthless.

[* Ideally you want a millionaire owner that want rid of a 'cheap runabout' used for occasional journeys by their maid and kept under cover most of the time so that it didn't spoil the view.  You really don't want a car doing high miles, run at zero budget and left out on the street.  The realistic sell is 'somewhere in the middle', but you want as far towards the millionaire end as possible.]

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Re cambelt

Lots of Mazda engines are non-interference -- ie, if the cambelt breaks the engine stops working (ie recovery needed) but it won't be broken and it'll start working again with a new cambelt.  I think this is true of the 2.0l Mazda 5 from 09 but I'm not sure.  

If this is the case don't worry about the cambelt so much.

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2 minutes ago, dgul said:

If this is the case don't worry about the cambelt so much.

I worry about cambelts. I had mine changed when I bought my car. The garage man said it took hours with blowtorches and hammers, as it probably hadn't been changed in the 20 years since new.

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2 minutes ago, MrPin said:

I worry about cambelts. I had mine changed when I bought my car. The garage man said it took hours with blowtorches and hammers, as it probably hadn't been changed in the 20 years since new.

I find cambelts rather odd.  To me it is strange to put a single point of failure onto a car that results in it often being a write-off.  The cynic in me thinks that it is just a way for them to ensure that old cars disappear, even if they do galvanise them, etc.

But chains seem a bit 19th century.  I rather like the gear driven cams in the Honda VFR engines (and the old Essex V6, but that failed because they made the gears from Plasticine), even if they do whine a bit.

I'm surprised we've not gone to valves actuated by solenoids -- but they'd probably stop working after a few years by the seaside so perhaps not.

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Fucked if I'd get another Mazda 5. Especially not second-hand from a dubious trader.

It was a decent family car in most respects and the door arrangement was good, but :-

Uneconomical on fuel except on A/B roads at a consistent speed (motorway mpg wasn't  good and town was bad)

Uneconomical on tyres (it ate them) and suspension (there's a design flaw in the Mazda 5 suspension which also causes the tyres issue)

Just MO but I'd say forget these van type vehicles and get a big diesel estate (assuming you want diesel) - something like a Superb. 

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1 minute ago, dgul said:

But chains seem a bit 19th century.  I rather like the gear driven cams in the Honda VFR engines (and the old Essex V6, but that failed because they made the gears from Plasticine), even if they do whine a bit.

Chain driven is pretty good, as it's inside the engine. Gear driven cams are expensive to make, so not often seen.

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7 minutes ago, dgul said:

I find cambelts rather odd.  To me it is strange to put a single point of failure onto a car that results in it often being a write-off.  The cynic in me thinks that it is just a way for them to ensure that old cars disappear, even if they do galvanise them, etc.

But chains seem a bit 19th century.  I rather like the gear driven cams in the Honda VFR engines (and the old Essex V6, but that failed because they made the gears from Plasticine), even if they do whine a bit.

 

Check out the Ford 1.8 TDCi... wet belt - worst of both worlds!

7 minutes ago, dgul said:

 

I'm surprised we've not gone to valves actuated by solenoids -- but they'd probably stop working after a few years by the seaside so perhaps not.

Koenigsegg use this tech - 'Freevalve'

Edited by Boglet
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1 hour ago, Chewing Grass said:

If you don't want to keep it more than 2 years you can probably ignore the rust, otherwise I would leave it as very few cars generally show rust these days and the rust you see on top is like the proverbial tip of the ice-berg and there is generally 90% more underneath.

Rear arches are a PITA when they rust due to the joint between the floorpan and body sides.

Front arches are piss easy to sort.

Thanks. 

The rust worries me a bit, as the plan would be to keep the car for 3/4 years ideally. 

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1 hour ago, UmBongo said:

Are these chain driven? Jap mobiles tend to be, like my Nissan. 

Nah, belt driven, unfortunately. 

Found another one with some more miles on it and they're gonna let me know about its cam belt, said they could fit a new one cost price, so £250 ish. That sounds silly cheap to me. 

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