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SNACR

The Car Repair Thread - Like The AA But We Don't Try To Sell You An Unnecessary Battery

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Car knackered or general car repair advice post here and we'll shake our heads and suck air through our virtual teeth and tell you how expensive it's going to be.

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1 minute ago, One percent said:

My neighbour has an old clapped out Porsche. Just had it trailered away for an engine rebuild. 

Wasn't someone on here trying to sell a knackered old Porsche?

Wonder if anyone has unwittingly got a Dosbodder neighbour.

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Not car related, but I'm looking for a brad nailer. Currently don't have air tools, should I "air up" and then get air sanders, spray gun etc. or is cordless now the way forward? (Cordless brad nailers aren't technically such as they still do need a gas cartridge fitted).

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15 minutes ago, eight said:

Not car related, but I'm looking for a brad nailer. Currently don't have air tools, should I "air up" and then get air sanders, spray gun etc. or is cordless now the way forward? (Cordless brad nailers aren't technically such as they still do need a gas cartridge fitted).

Air nailer for workshop use. Gas paslode for site work.

http://www.toolbank.com/0/p/BOSBT1855E

https://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-airmate-tn-3-50-d-oil-lubricated-air-compressor.html

V's

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Paslode-IM65A-Li-ion-Gas-Powered-Cordless-Angled-Brad-Nail-Gun-209275/p/209275

 

Edited by XswampyX

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4 hours ago, SNACR said:
4 hours ago, SNACR said:

I'II start that other thread, in a sec, you need to buy a nut splitter, if you don't want to lay out on a cordless impact, they're pretty cheap probaly a fiver. That will get the nut off the track rod end without destroying the thread it so you'll just need to get another nut but check how much a new track rod end is first it might only be less than a tenner. Take it you've got a balljoint remover if that's stuck in the knuckle, avoid a using a pickle fork it'll destroy the boot.  

Oh cheers I hadn't thought of that. I daresay I might have some difficulty getting the replacement nut back on, though...

A replacement track rod end is 12 quid from ECP, or 7 if I get an identical one delivered from CP4L, which is annoying. The TRE will come out of the hub easily once I've got the nut off, I take it I might need the ball joint splitter to detach the hub from the wishbone? I suppose what I should do it attempt to remove that before I head off to Toolstation for the splitter, see if I can lever it apart with a pry bar or breaker bar, and if not buy a ball joint separator at the same time. Toolstation is only a 5 minute walk from my house, in any case.

Edit to say: I have a cordless impact gun, a Lidl 1/2" drive one. The 12V battery doesn't last long but it has enough thwack to rattle well done up wheel bolts off after a few goes, and it undid the seized in top caps of my scooter forks literally first hit. No joy on the TRE nut though.

Edited by Rave

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2 hours ago, XswampyX said:

Currently debating whether to offload Paslode kit, it's good, but gas can be problematic if not used regularly. Battery driven is an option, certainly would work well with the other tools sharing packs. Corded electric not to be dismissed if just buying the one tool (brad nailer) and working in owrkshop - have had  a Tacwise for ages and that works flawlessly, If all workshop work though then air tools probably the cheapest option if the compressor is to be shared with other tools.

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On the van front - getting an issue myself - intermittent loss of coolant - can check it for a few days and no level change then a few days later lost about half a litre and enough to set off water level warning light, happened a coupe of times now. Any ideas or checks to make?

 

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4 minutes ago, onlyme said:

Currently debating whether to offload Paslode kit, it's good, but gas can be problematic if not used regularly. Battery driven is an option, certainly would work well with the other tools sharing packs. Corded electric not to be dismissed if just buying the one tool (brad nailer) and working in owrkshop - have had  a Tacwise for ages and that works flawlessly, If all workshop work though then air tools probably the cheapest option if the compressor is to be shared with other tools.

You win on just the price of the brads...

£27.00 for 2000 for the paslode (inc gas)

£15.00 for 2500 for the air nailer.

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44 minutes ago, Rave said:

Oh cheers I hadn't thought of that. I daresay I might have some difficulty getting the replacement nut back on, though...

A replacement track rod end is 12 quid from ECP, or 7 if I get an identical one delivered from CP4L, which is annoying. The TRE will come out of the hub easily once I've got the nut off, I take it I might need the ball joint splitter to detach the hub from the wishbone? I suppose what I should do it attempt to remove that before I head off to Toolstation for the splitter, see if I can lever it apart with a pry bar or breaker bar, and if not buy a ball joint separator at the same time. Toolstation is only a 5 minute walk from my house, in any case.

Pricing is a very movable feast at Euro Crap Parts particularly if you can convince them you're trade. A line like it was a lot less than that last time can find prices collapsing enormously. TBH that sort of money is still dirt cheap although most of it won't last anything like OEM. If you do try one of those cheap nut splitters on the TRE spray a load of white grease, or similar on the thread and the chisel part head and it will greatly improve results.

In terms of getting the lower suspension arm balljoint off the steering knuckle this should cover most options (there are different designs).

Balljoint is bolted to knuckle a la TRE, ie single nyloc or castellated nut holding balljoint taper in. First check if the balljoint itself is actually bolted rather than riveted to the suspension arm, if bolted undo these as this will always be the route of least pain and leave you with the balljoint attached to the steering knuckle.

If you're going to have to force the balljoint taper out then usual routine of liberal penetrating fluid then you can try the two hammer trick, like on the TRE, of holding the head of one hammer tight against one side whilst smacking the other to shock/pop it out. Avoid pickle forks unless you're planning on replacing the arm or balljoint entirely. A balljoint splitter of this design (link below) is never going to be a bad investment with old cars, you'll inevitably need it at some stage. Again liberal white grease to thread prior to use. On a H&S note safety glasses when using aren't a bad idea as the forces applied are quite large and I wouldn't trust some bit of Chinese shite not to send high velocity metal fragments everywhere. Worth applying a fair bit of pressure them trying the hammer trick again rather than resorting to ever longer breaker bars on the splitter bolt tempting catastrophic failure.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht222-ball-joint-remover/?da=1&TC=GS-040211222&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-s-HtsC62QIVzZPtCh1b9Q1QEAQYASABEgLnfvD_BwE

The other very common design on suspension arm balljoints is it will be unthreaded and then clamp into the steering knuckle. Apply liberal penetrating oil, as standard, the trick then is to use a screwdriver/cold chisel and hammer to pry open the clamping part on the knuckle before you try and force the arm/balljoint out with a prybar or by hammering anywhere not likely to cause damage. When you put it back together be very careful not to hammer the balljoint and damage it and also the rod will often have a recessed part the clamp bolt aligns with so pay attention to that you may not need to push it all the way flush with the knuckle.

Edited by SNACR

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11 minutes ago, onlyme said:

On the van front - getting an issue myself - intermittent loss of coolant - can check it for a few days and no level change then a few days later lost about half a litre and enough to set off water level warning light, happened a coupe of times now. Any ideas or checks to make?

 

How precious is the vehicle, as bunging some K-seal in is often a better alternative than masses of stripping out looking for pipe leaks. (must be K-seal don't touch radweld or any other crap).

Worth having a good look round the engine bay with a torch for any telltale white stains from coolant leaks. Also any misting up inside the cab?

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4 minutes ago, SNACR said:

How precious is the vehicle, as bunging some K-seal in is often a better alternative than masses of stripping out looking for pipe leaks. (must be K-seal don't touch radweld or any other crap).

Worth having a good look round the engine bay with a torch for any telltale white stains from coolant leaks. Also any misting up inside the cab?

Its a bog standard T5, 100K on the clock though going to have some money spent on it for conversion to camper use as well. Not heard of K-Seal - any chance it could cause additional damage? It is not driven hard. Had a look for visible leak signs - none seen - might try and put a water catch on the overflow just in case some how the coolant is bubbling up (bt cannot see that as being likely). No sign or emulsion in oil and obvious water vapour seen form exhaust either. Might drive it a bit more and keep a good eye on it on the basis that if it is a leak then more likely to open up more and eventually make itself more obvious. 

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9 minutes ago, SNACR said:

The other very common design on suspension arm balljoints is it will be unthreaded and then clamp into the steering knuckle. Apply liberal penetrating oil, as standard, the trick then is to use a screwdriver/cold chisel and hammer to pry open the clamping part on the knuckle before you try and force the arm/balljoint out with a prybar or by hammering anywhere not likely to cause damage. When you put it back together be very careful not to hammer the balljoint and damage it and also the rod will often have a recessed part the clamp bolt aligns with so pay attention to that you may not need to push it all the way flush with the knuckle.

I am hoping it will be that type TBH. The advantage of the CV boot joint having let go is that everything has been liberally coated with fresh grease, so I am hoping some has made it into whatever needs to come apart :) .

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21 minutes ago, XswampyX said:

You win on just the price of the brads...

£27.00 for 2000 for the paslode (inc gas)

£15.00 for 2500 for the air nailer.

Yes, part of my thinking too. Also I rigged up  some portable kit with an ultralight compressor (old defunct pancake portable tank and a suspension pump from an old range rover - that and a 12V battery works great for airbrush, small nailer - no good obviously for anything continuous airflow). 

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2 minutes ago, onlyme said:

Its a bog standard T5, 100K on the clock though going to have some money spent on it for conversion to camper use as well. Not heard of K-Seal - any chance it could cause additional damage? It is not driven hard. Had a look for visible leak signs - none seen - might try and put a water catch on the overflow just in case some how the coolant is bubbling up (bt cannot see that as being likely). No sign or emulsion in oil and obvious water vapour seen form exhaust either. Might drive it a bit more and keep a good eye on it on the basis that if it is a leak then more likely to open up more and eventually make itself more obvious. 

I adopted this policy with my Mondeo. The result was an enormous cloud of steam from under the bonnet as I drove up a very busy road in Earls Court on the way to pick up my mate from Heathrow Airport as the small split in one of the pipes turned into a large one, followed by a ride home on the back of a recovery truck. I really would at the very least get a torch and examine all the coolant pipes you can see, and give the radiator a once over.

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12 minutes ago, onlyme said:

Its a bog standard T5, 100K on the clock though going to have some money spent on it for conversion to camper use as well. Not heard of K-Seal - any chance it could cause additional damage? It is not driven hard. Had a look for visible leak signs - none seen - might try and put a water catch on the overflow just in case some how the coolant is bubbling up (bt cannot see that as being likely). No sign or emulsion in oil and obvious water vapour seen form exhaust either. Might drive it a bit more and keep a good eye on it on the basis that if it is a leak then more likely to open up more and eventually make itself more obvious. 

1.9 TDI? - if so not too tricky to get to the water pump and see if there's any signs of leaking. If it's had a timing belt change do you know if it had the water pump doing - it should have done

I've never had any problems with K-Seal. A lot of stuff about it on forums tends to be armchair types trying to sound knowledgeable and competent without a lot of experience. They'll say stuff like 'fix it properly' etc. but on elderly vehicles often the only way you'd do it is to strip the entire vehicle down (and I mean entirely strip down ie dashboard out, water pump, radiator and every pipe hose and o-ring replaced). I've certainly used it and had no problems and it has actually fixed the problem and it's never needed attending to again.

A common forum one will be it clogged the radiator/heater matrix etc. but chances are it was bunged in to remedy a failing cooling system and the clogging problem is actually the radiator or matrix corroding internally and it's the internal corrosion in the system that was causing the problem in the first place. 

FWIW it is the only product the AA use as they are satisfied the risk of compensation claims from knock on damage is small enough. 

Edited by SNACR

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21 minutes ago, Rave said:

I am hoping it will be that type TBH. The advantage of the CV boot joint having let go is that everything has been liberally coated with fresh grease, so I am hoping some has made it into whatever needs to come apart :) .

Yeah, I couldn't see from the AS picture as covered in grease but googling Megane suspension arm now I'm pretty sure it's the clamp in type.

It would be much less struggle to just unbolt the strut from the knuckle but you can find that the knuckle flopping around on just the lower balljoint can split the balljoint rubber boot if it's even slightly perished.

Just seen your edit, on the TRE, with the Lidl Impact, did you try running it up back and forth with liberal application of lubricant to get it past the stiff thread part also a wire wheel on a drill on the stiff part of the thread? Is there enough unthreaded part protruding through to get a stilson wrench on it would grip much better than mole grips, or pop out the TRE from the knuckle then get a stilson on it.

 

Edited by SNACR

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10 minutes ago, SNACR said:

1.9 TDI? - if so not too tricky to get to the water pump and see if there's any signs of leaking. If it's had a timing belt change do you know if it had the water pump doing - it should have done

I've never had any problems with K-Seal. A lot of stuff about it on forums tends to be armchair types trying to sound knowledgeable and competent without a lot of experience. They'll say stuff like 'fix it properly' etc. but on elderly vehicles often the only way you'd do it is to strip the entire vehicle down (and I mean entirely strip down ie dashboard out, water pump, radiator and every pipe hose and o-ring replaced). I've certainly used it and had no problems and it has actually fixed the problem and it's never needed attending to again.

A common forum one will be it clogged the radiator/heater matrix etc. but chances are it was bunged in to remedy a failing cooling system and the clogging problem is actually the radiator or matrix corroding internally and it's the internal corrosion in the system that was causing the problem in the first place. 

FWIW it is the only product the AA use as they are satisfied the risk of compensation claims from knock on damage is small enough. 

Yes, 1.9.  Water pump is very accessible as you say, so will check that. Don't think I have the detailed history for whether water pump was changed but don't remember seeing a new water pump on there when I first owned it which was only 5K after scheduled timing belt change.

Will definitely give the K-seal a go if nothing obvious turns up then int he meantime, many thanks for the tip!

 

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19 minutes ago, SNACR said:

Just seen your edit, on the TRE, with the Lidl Impact, did you try running it up back and forth with liberal application of lubricant to get it past the stiff thread part also a wire wheel on a drill on the stiff part of the thread? Is there enough unthreaded part protruding through to get a stilson wrench on it would grip much better than mole grips, or pop out the TRE from the knuckle then get a stilson on it.

 

I didn't TBH, didn't have much time today. I will try all that tomorrow.

What's likely to happen, of course, is that I eventually get the CV boot changed after a load of bad tempered bodgery, probably badly skinning my knuckles slipping while trying to get the new boot over the cone, take it to a tyre shop to get the tracking done, and then find that the wishbone is indeed kippered. But by that point I should be pretty well versed in how to get it all apart again. Bit like the time I tried to fix my Mondeo alternator by soldering in new brushes, when a whole new regulator was only 30 quid. It didn't take me nearly as long to pull it out the second time...

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11 hours ago, onlyme said:

Currently debating whether to offload Paslode kit, it's good, but gas can be problematic if not used regularly. Battery driven is an option, certainly would work well with the other tools sharing packs. Corded electric not to be dismissed if just buying the one tool (brad nailer) and working in owrkshop - have had  a Tacwise for ages and that works flawlessly, If all workshop work though then air tools probably the cheapest option if the compressor is to be shared with other tools.

Thanks for all the advice, it would be workshop only, hence why I was wondering if it was worth investing in all air kit; sure I have read SNACR on here pontificating if cordless doesn't now have the edge in terms of performance for certain applications.

Will probably go with that mains Tacwise as I only need it for one specific job and even that isn't so onerous.

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42 minutes ago, eight said:

Thanks for all the advice, it would be workshop only, hence why I was wondering if it was worth investing in all air kit; sure I have read SNACR on here pontificating if cordless doesn't now have the edge in terms of performance for certain applications.

Will probably go with that mains Tacwise as I only need it for one specific job and even that isn't so onerous.

One I have is the 191EL Pro, Does brad nails and staples. Used it for architrave/cladding etc. Many will have hardly been used and should make a good s/h cheap buy as lots sold retail and so not been battered about by trade. 

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Wasn't particularly hopeful having read the reviews but couldn't be bothered to go twice the distance to Machine Mart to pay twice as much.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automotive/d60/Mechanics+Tools/sd180/Nut+Splitter+Set/p80007

The actual set I received is Silverline and looks rather better made than the monkey metal ones in the pic. I greased the chisel and thread prior to use and...it did the job in under a minute! :)

Bottom ball joint next, we'll see how that goes. It's bloody cold to be working on cars outdoors TBH.

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The central locking has become intermittent on my Seat Leon bar the driver door and boot; it opens the others as well every once in a while but ?five times out of six it doesn't.

I haven't bothered fixing it and it's been like that for over a year; it was fine for the MoT as all the doors open albeit from the inside manual release.

Is it an easy / cheap fix and if I don't do it am I likely to find that one day the boot and driver door don't open either?

TiA

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Cut and pasted from the Autoshite forum for Snaccy's benefit:

I'm starting to realize why the garage quoted so much for the job now!

 

On the recommendation of a friend on another forum I went and bought myself some nut splitters from Toolstation. The larger one made short work of the TRE nut and that was soon off. So I turned my attention to the clamp on the hub holding the wishbone balljoint in. The nut came off easily enough but the bolt wasn't shifting even after some attention from a 4lb lump hammer. So I figured that I'd try spinning the bolt from the other end. Putting a spanner on and banging it with the lump hammer did nowt, so I figured I'd loosen the top brake caliper bolt and remove the bottom one and swivel it up out of the way so I could get the breaker bar on it with a 6" extender. Bear in mind that all these nuts and bolts are absolutely covered in grease from the failed CV joint boot, and my roll of kitchen towel keeps blowing away in the wind.

 

Anyway, that didn't work because the pads wouldn't clear the lip on the disc. So reluctantly I took the caliper off the carrier, at which point the carrier fell on the floor and ejected the pads. The one saving grace is that the flexi is long enough that the caliper can just rest on the ground without straining it, I'm not sure why all cars don't work like that. So, I cracked the bolt loose with the breaker bar, at which point it finally yielded to the attentions of the lump hammer. After having given the job another 5 minute looking at, I figured that trying to lever the arm down by putting a breaker bar between it and the CV joint was a bad idea, so the disc had to come off in order that I could get the breaker bar in from that side and lever on the hub instead.

 

I really thought that the disc retaining screw had broken my T40 Torx T-bar, but it the snap was the incredibly tight screw coming loose with a bang. The other one did the same, and with the disc off I was able to lever the hub and wishbone apart. Getting it back together will be fun I bet.

 

Anyway, have popped inside for a coffee, a vape and a warm up before I see about getting the hub nut off (it's already been loosened) and the driveshaft free. Ah well, at least I've not broken anything yet. Still plenty of opportunity for that though I expect.

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15 minutes ago, Frank Hovis said:

The central locking has become intermittent on my Seat Leon bar the driver door and boot; it opens the others as well every once in a while but ?five times out of six it doesn't.

I haven't bothered fixing it and it's been like that for over a year; it was fine for the MoT as all the doors open albeit from the inside manual release.

Is it an easy / cheap fix and if I don't do it am I likely to find that one day the boot and driver door don't open either?

TiA

I'd have a quick check in the manual/online as opening just the driver's door and boot sounds like it might some sort of design feature that could be activated/deactivated.

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