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Cosmic Apple

Rounded Bolt Removal - Down a 35cm 'tunnel'

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So, short version I rounded an H6 bolt that is situated down a 35cm long, very narrow tunnel (1/4 socket/extensions only).

Going to ring an engineering firm I've used a few times on annoying broken bleed nipples and stuff, but what do you guys think? Can they do it? Any ideas of how?

Biggest pain in the arse is its attached to 60-70kg of gearbox/transfer box :(

Edited by Cosmic Apple

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8 minutes ago, MrPin said:

WD40 and some heat.

That's a good shout.

Get the replacement bolt (h6???) and find the closest undersized socket that will fit the new item. Then take a blow torch to the new socket and hammer it over the old rounded bolt. Wait for it to cool and then undo.

Piece of piss! xD

Edited by XswampyX

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12 minutes ago, MrPin said:

WD40 and some heat.

How do you apply either of them to a bolt thats down a narrow (say, around 20mm) pipe 35cm down?

5 minutes ago, XswampyX said:

That's a good shout.

Get the replacement bolt (h6???) and find the closest undersized socket that will fit the new item. Then take a blow torch to the new socket and hammer it over the old rounded bolt. Wait for it to cool and then undo.

Piece of piss! xD

Its H6, so was a hex hole in the top of the bolt. Now a circular hole in a circular bolt (probably, if I could see it).

Edited by Cosmic Apple

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5 minutes ago, XswampyX said:

That's a good shout.

Get the replacement bolt (h6???) and find the closest undersized socket that will fit the new item. Then take a blow torch to the new socket and hammer it over the old rounded bolt. Wait for it to cool and then undo.

Piece of piss! xD

Pain up the bum more like. Don't use your high quality socket sets.:Old:

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2 minutes ago, Cosmic Apple said:

How do you apply either of them to a bolt thats down a narrow (say, around 20mm) pipe 35cm down?

Its H6, so was a hex hole in the top of the bolt. Now a circular hole in a circular bolt (probably, if I could see it).

Now you know why decent mechanics cost money.:Old: You might have to drill the head off and extract the thead.

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1 minute ago, MrPin said:

Now you know why decent mechanics cost money.:Old: You might have to drill the head off and extract the thead.

Where's the fun in that? I just want to sell the stupid gearbox and transfer case... wish I'd just left them as one and flogged as is. 

My hole & snonkey makeshift tool :)

 

 

IMG_20180423_202542.jpg

IMG_20180423_202605.jpg

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Just now, MrPin said:

In retrospect WD40 and some heat might have been more useful before you rounded off the hexagon hole,:Old:

Probably :) Could have maybe tipped it on its side and liberally applied PlugGas. Don't think I'd get any heat that far down.

The buggers on bloody tight for a wee blighter, I snapped an extension before I tried the impact, and it must have moved out a bit and just rounded it off.

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Just now, MrPin said:

You really should have bought a Harley. They never go wrong, and they never wear out, because the owners never go anywhere on them any more.:Old:

Maybe :) 

I'll sacrifice the transfer box if need be and weld something to the bolt to extract it if they can't drill it for me.

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H6 i assume you mean a cap head ( female allen key ?) bolt ,the best way to deal with that is a Torx 45 ?  not 100% on the size of the torx it may not be a 45 maybe for a H7 but the deal is use one thats over 6 mm in diameter  just hammer the torx bit into the rounded off hole it will cut it`s own hole, and it works every time VW crank pulley bolts are renowned for rounding off and this is a tried and tested way 

When you get a a tight bolt it always pays to give it a good clout with a hammer you will be surprised how many stubborn bolts give in to this method 

Edited by Long time lurking

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17 hours ago, Long time lurking said:

H6 i assume you mean a cap head ( female allen key ?) bolt ,the best way to deal with that is a Torx 45 ?  not 100% on the size of the torx it may not be a 45 maybe for a H7 but the deal is use one thats over 6 mm in diameter  just hammer the torx bit into the rounded off hole it will cut it`s own hole, and it works every time VW crank pulley bolts are renowned for rounding off and this is a tried and tested way 

When you get a a tight bolt it always pays to give it a good clout with a hammer you will be surprised how many stubborn bolts give in to this method 

I was thinking JB Weld but your's is a better option.

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On 23/04/2018 at 20:51, Long time lurking said:

H6 i assume you mean a cap head ( female allen key ?) bolt ,the best way to deal with that is a Torx 45 ?  not 100% on the size of the torx it may not be a 45 maybe for a H7 but the deal is use one thats over 6 mm in diameter  just hammer the torx bit into the rounded off hole it will cut it`s own hole, and it works every time VW crank pulley bolts are renowned for rounding off and this is a tried and tested way 

When you get a a tight bolt it always pays to give it a good clout with a hammer you will be surprised how many stubborn bolts give in to this method 

+1

Didn't see this thread earlier in the week. Would add the torx bit really needs to be pro quality like Snap On USA made or German made quality.

Would also suspect that as it's a transmission the reason it won't budge is it has threadlocker on it in which means no amount of penetrating oil will do much good as it's probably not rusted in it's chemically sealed in. Only way really is heat which you'd have struggled to get on it. Of the penetrating oils for rusted/stuck bolts Loctite freeze spray or equivalents are the best. The other thing to look out for with bolts on rotating parts is that they aren't left hand threads and the reason it strips out is because you're tightening it.

Too late for this but if you ever get any hex/torx/phillips type heads that start feeling stubborn abandon a normal socket wrench and use a t bar so you're keeping straight even force on it. If that's feeling like it might strip then use one of these - although sounds like you might have tried this or was it a powered one because that would round off if too torquey. Although even though it will be much easier once the threadlock seal is broken it will still not spin anything like freely.

22322_2800-10iu.jpg

 

If you do ever drill anything out resist the temptation to try an easy out it almost always ends with a broken hardened steel easy out removal problem.

Gearboxes are often an area for stupidly long socket extensions not unusual to have to use a 3ft+ one, with universal joints to get at top bellhousing bolts on some cars where the whole engine/gearbox/subframe assembly is just lifted to the body to fit on the production line.

Edited by SNACR

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