• Welcome to DOSBODS

    Please consider creating a free account to be able to access all the features of the DOSBODS community. It only takes 20 seconds!

Carl Fimble

Car broken down- help!

Recommended Posts

My car has broken down, was wondering if any of you lot have any ideas what the problem might be....

It did not start immediately this morning as it normally does, but did start and drive ok. I went out again a wee while ago and it again took a wee minute to start but then drove ok, maybe with a few “flat spots” with reduced power for a second or so.

I then started it again (took a few turns of the starter motor again) after being at the shops, when I stopped at some lights and was idling it cut out, started it again and drove home, half way there it was cutting out but would restart again (again taking a few turns of the starter before it started) then, after maybe 50ft it did it again, tried starting it again but it wouldn’t “catch”, kept trying but it wouldn’t start, then the lights on the dash went dimmer and it wouldn’t even turn over at all. 

Gonna have to take it to the garage, will be heavy steering while I’m getting towed but there’s no way I’m paying for a tow truck, can’t afford it anyway. 

Fuck. 

It’s a 2.0 diesel Mazda btw. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It could be that the battery is knackered.  Mine started giving me problems last year that turned in two days into won't start.

It is also a diesel and the recovery guy said that because of the heavier load that diesel engines draw from batteries on start up their life is six to eight years depending upon how many starts you do.

My car then was eight years old and had about 140k on; though the mileage isn't the issue it's the number of starts.

If you car is of similar age it will probably benefit from a new battery anyway; if you can get it charged and put into the car then it will be able to get you to the garage or home anyway when you can get them to have a look at the charging by putting a multimeter across the temrinals whne the engine's running.

I guess an underlying porblem may be alternator belt slipping and need replacement ?£30 or new alternator required ?£150.

I did replace an alternator on my Escort so it's doable but you need to know that it needs it first.

Anyway: there's my tuppen'orth though I'm not a mechanic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a Vectra that did that. It was caused by a "flap" which regulated airflow to the engine getting stuck "open".

Fuel pump failure also possible. Along with a number of other things like a failed ECU.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Carl Fimble said:

My car has broken down, was wondering if any of you lot have any ideas what the problem might be....

It did not start immediately this morning as it normally does, but did start and drive ok. I went out again a wee while ago and it again took a wee minute to start but then drove ok, maybe with a few “flat spots” with reduced power for a second or so.

I then started it again (took a few turns of the starter motor again) after being at the shops, when I stopped at some lights and was idling it cut out, started it again and drove home, half way there it was cutting out but would restart again (again taking a few turns of the starter before it started) then, after maybe 50ft it did it again, tried starting it again but it wouldn’t “catch”, kept trying but it wouldn’t start, then the lights on the dash went dimmer and it wouldn’t even turn over at all. 

Gonna have to take it to the garage, will be heavy steering while I’m getting towed but there’s no way I’m paying for a tow truck, can’t afford it anyway. 

Fuck. 

It’s a 2.0 diesel Mazda btw. 

When was the last time you had the diesel filter changed ? 

Sounds like fuel starvation 

Once you get a diesel going , lack of fuel is the main thing that stops them 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If basics - alternator, battery and main electrics check out OK might be worth checking the SCV (suction control valve) next, maybe get garage to check/clean it out, that can cause intermittent start/running problems..

Edit - also has been very wet - well it has here, check for damp in fuse box etc.

Edited by onlyme

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, Carl Fimble said:

 Gonna have to take it to the garage, will be heavy steering while I’m getting towed but there’s no way I’m paying for a tow truck, can’t afford it anyway. 

Don't forget that you will not have servo assistance on the brakes either. Shout if you don't know what this means!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure why anybody asks for advice here... 6 different answers :D

Personally I'd certainly see if the battery is still OK as a first stage, something you can do yourself will minimal expense and effort. I suspect if you ask around you will know somebody with a battery charger.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Might be worth a Google search including the make and model to see if this is a commonly reported problem (example: the issue I had with the Vectra was well-known and could be fixed by removing the offending part and washing it to remove the muck preventing the flap closing)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Fuel injector symptoms for bad, faulty, dirty, clogged, or leaking injectors are :
  • Starting issues.
  • Poor idle.
  • Failed emissions.
  • Poor Performance.
  • Engine does not reach full RPM.
  • Increased fuel consumption.
  • Rough engine performance.
  • Surging and bucking under various throttle loads.

 

you're in a world of hurt when modern diesels go wrong

 
Edited by ashestoashes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, ashestoashes said:
Fuel injector symptoms for bad, faulty, dirty, clogged, or leaking injectors are :
  • Starting issues.
  • Poor idle.
  • Failed emissions.
  • Poor Performance.
  • Engine does not reach full RPM.
  • Increased fuel consumption.
  • Rough engine performance.
  • Surging and bucking under various throttle loads.

 

you're in a world of hurt when modern diesels go wrong

 

but i got exactly the same symptoms with a bad egr valve. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To throw in my 2 cents,  my guess is not the battery because running load is way lower than starting load so if it was a battery it just wouldn’t turn over well and fail to get started.

What you describe sounds like either fuel starvation or ignition problem..  fuel seems less likely,  again because I think a fuel pump would just fail,  and even if it didn’t would probably be evident when really putting your foot down as opposed to being the same at any engine load.   So my guess is for something electrical.. maybe even as silly as water in the throttle pot or one of the other sensors..  but really,  until they plug it into the diagnostics all of us are really just guessing.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to be systematic.

Is it a fuel problem, or is it an electric problem?

First thing to check, are the spark plugs firing when you turn the engine over?

If the spark plugs are firing, then it's a fuel problem.

It could be lots of things, modern cars can have lots of things stopping the fuel getting to the engine.

First is the fuel pump. If you close all the windows in the car, and are in a quiet place, if you turn the key in the ignition, but not to the point where the engine turns over, if the fuel pump is working, you should hear a low hum when the fuel pump pressurises (if not then your fuel pump is knackered and there is no way the engine will start without a new one).

If yes, it's further down the chain, and the next thing is the carburetor/fuel injection.

Carburetors nowadays have a lot of electronics inside them, particularly on the throttle body, if this malfunctions, again the car will not start without a new one.

On the other hand if there a no sparks (unscrew a spark plug and turn the engine over, can you see a faint blue flash or hear a sharp clicking?), you have to track that down.

First thing to check is the battery, have you got a multi-meter/volt meter to message the voltage across the positive and negative terminals? Can you turn on your headlights? Do the other electrical systems work inside the car? If the battery has charged down it could be

Next thing to check is if the fuse to the alternator has gone, it will be in the engine bay somewhere (the fuses are translucent coloured plastic on the top, and you can see if it has burnt out).

Another check to check is if the fuse to the fuel injector has gone, again, it will be in the engine bay somewhere.

Next thing is the alternator itself. Unfortunately if the alternator has gone, the battery usually charges down too. Was the car growling, or were the headlights, or dashboard lights dimming before your car broke down? Was the radio getting louder or quieter. Could you smell burning rubber? Was the alternator hot after the car stopped?

If it's none of that, it might be an engine management problem. I don't know how to do this for Mazdas, but some engine management allow you to short some jumpers inside the car (usually next to the internal fuses), and the engine management will display a fault code.

I hope this helps.

N.B. Sorry, I've only just read that you a diesel, therefore there won't be spark plugs, but glow plus (as the name suggest, they glow, and don't spark).

Edited by SuperTramp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Frank Hovis
      The story in the link below is a little short on detail but it's been expanded upon on the radio.
      This applies from 2022, rather than some kick down the road 2040 date as for EVs, so it looks like it's going to happen.
      The limiter is also going to be an "intelligent" limiter which will work on the speed limit of your road. You know those dot matrix signs on motorways where they leave up the 50mph limit for hours after any accident so you ignore them if the road is obviously clear: ignoring is no longer an option.
      I'm not a great speeder myself but have a powerful car which lets me get past slow moving vehicles which usually involves speeding for the overtake and that won't be possible.
      I know it's the EU but you can guarantee the UK will bring it in as well.
      Anyone else see there being a huge premium on current, unlimited, fast cars in the future?
      https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-47715415
    • By Chewing Grass
      Now where is my rubber glove.
      <your image has been banned by our automated meme detection system>
      https://www.wired.co.uk/article/eu-article-13-vote-article-17
      EU member states now have two years to pass their own laws that put the Copyright Directive into effect.
    • By Chewing Grass
      There I feel better now - thread title of the year 2019 here I come.
      Edit:-  Note, its not fucked yet so 'The EU is fucked' would be a bit premature.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.